Taiwan: Arrival in Taipei

When we said that we were going to Taiwan for two months, people invariably asked us why. Why Taiwan? A good question. Since we retired, Caoimhin and I have left home to travel to warmer climates for two or three months before Christmas (and again in the new year). This year we were thinking about Africa, but by late August we hadn’t anything booked. On a whim, I asked ChatGPT where it would recommend for a couple in their sixties who were reasonably fit, liked nature, the outdoors, a bit of culture and some beach time but it had to be budget friendly and with nice weather in Oct, Nov and into Dec. The first suggestion was Morocco (but we were there last year), and the next was Taiwan. Until then, we hadn’t even contemplated going to Taiwan. We investigated further. The flights were relatively affordable (€700 return per person) and the country sounded interesting, smaller than Ireland but mountainous and supposedly a great place for cycling and hiking.

We landed in Taipei, the capital city of Taiwan (after a surprisingly lovely stopover in Abu Dhabi) with small carry-on luggage and vague notions of hiring bicycles to cycle around this reputedly ‘bike friendly’ island. A mad idea as we weren’t ‘cyclists’… the week before we left home, we dusted the cobwebs off our old bikes and cycled from our house to Hook Lighthouse (about 40 kms) and felt the after-effects for days. But we weren’t in a rush, and had time to get used to cycling on the go, hadn’t we?

A series of soft toys sat on the dashboard of the bus taking us from Taipei airport to our hotel. Apparently bus drivers can decorate their buses as they please but the toys were at odds with the driver, who was surly with no trace of the famed Taiwanese friendliness.. Our hotel, the Silken, was fine, but a big step down from the luxurious complimentary one in Abu Dhabi but our main grumble was that they wouldn’t allow us to check in early. We sat on a hard bench in reception for two hours before our room was ready, watching a series of cat figurines on the reception counter, waving their arms at us. These were Maneki-neko (beckoning cats) to attract good luck and wealth, but they didn’t induce the receptionist to take pity on us. It had been a long, sleepless night as our overnight Abu Dhabi flight had been over two hours late departing. Finally, the hotel staff allowed us into our room. Although we wanted to fall onto the bed in a coma, it was only 4pm, so to fight jetlag, we dragged ourselves downtown on the metro to do a walking tour.

The public transport system in Taipei was fantastic, both metro and buses. The helpful lady in the Tourist Information booth at the airport told us where to buy public transport cards and also warned us that the card machines only accepted cash. Armed with a wad of Taiwan Dollars (about 35 TWD to the euro) in crisp one-thousand notes, we queued to buy the cards, only to discover that the machines needed exact money–no change given. But eventually we had the cards and we used them a lot in Taipei.

Our tour guide was small with dyed green hair and wore shorts and a cropped top…so different from our Abu Dhabi guide. The tour group was a mixed bag of nationalities…a melting pot of cultural identities and ethnicities. There were Americans (who were ethnically Indian) from San Francisco who were in Taipei for work, there was an Australian man who looked ethnically Chinese but couldn’t speak any Mandarin, there was a young Italian who spoke fluent Mandarin and was looking for a job in Taiwan and of course tourists from Germany and Canada. It was warm–about 26C–as we traipsed around the temples. Longshan Temple had a multitude of deities, Buddhist, Taoist and Chinese…something for everyone. Many of the worshippers were young, making offerings with serious intent. The night markets sold all kinds of food. Some of the English translations among the indecipherable Chinese characters read ‘beef offal’ and ‘chicken testicle.’

Renting bikes proved a little more difficult than we expected. The main problem was that Caoimhin’s height didn’t fall within the Taiwanese/East Asia category. We contemplated buying a bike, but again the same problem…it would have to be ordered. Eventually we made a deal but still had to wait three days before we could pick up the bikes, which we rented for 6 weeks.

In the meantime, we hiked to a viewing point for city views. We also met a young Taiwanese woman, a friend of our daughter’s, who treated us to a delicious dinner followed by drinks with views of the local landmark, Taipei Tower 101…a lovely fun evening. Thanks, Shun.

Additionally, we took a bus tour of northern Taiwan… it was relaxing to be driven around by a very enthusiastic guide who spoke rapid English that was sometimes hard to understand. We visited Yehliu Geopark, where the natural force of waves, wind, and rain shaped the rocks. One of the main attractions was the Queen’s Head, but the queen may be in danger of losing her head because her neck’s circumference has been decreasing by 2cms per year through erosion. The 1.3-tonne top-heavy sandstone head could snap at any time.

Shifen, an old mining town, changed its business model when the coal ran out. It was now in the dream trade. The main attraction here was writing wishes on paper lanterns and watching them rise into the air. There was the smell of paraffin, Chinese sausage and dumplings and a sky full of floating lanterns.

It was a late start. The bike rental shop, Arundan Cycles, opened at 1pm–fairly typical in Taiwan as most businesses stayed open until 9pm. We filled our panniers, donned helmets and took a photo. I didn’t feel ready at all. The famous Taiwanese cycling route, known as the CR1 (Cycle Route One or Huandao in Mandarin), is a circumnavigation of the island measuring about 1,000 kilometres. This is a rite of passage for young Taiwanese (and maybe old ones, as well). Fit people in a hurry can do this in a gruelling 10–14 days, but we planned something more sedate. We decided on a similar route, starting in a counterclockwise direction from Taipei down the west coast. Although this coast was flatter, it was also far more industrialised and less scenic than the east, but things should get better as we went along…and our fitness should improve.

Arundan Cycles was in the north of Taipei, at least 15 kms from the nearest point of the cycling route CR1. To find the actual CR1, we had to run the gauntlet of busy roads, crammed with scooters and buses on unfamiliar bikes with loaded packs.  I was nervous although Caoimhin wasn’t😀). However, it was less stressful than anticipated. In most of Taipei, cyclists shared the wide footpaths with pedestrians, and there was even a smaller lane for cyclists at pedestrian crossings.  

We kept getting lost. There were so many bike paths along by the rivers that it was confusing to find the ‘right’ one that would link us with the CR1. Eventually we just headed south and hoped for the best. Once we ended on an extremely busy road, but a man not only pointed us in the right direction, but insisted on walking with us to be sure that we picked the right route. Sometimes there was belching traffic inches from our wheels, the sun beating on us and the roar of vehicles, but mostly we were on dedicated riverside paths at this early stage.

On that first day, at about 4.30pm, we looked for somewhere to stay using Booking.com. It got dark at about 5.30pm. The nearest affordable place was the Q Motel in Tucheng in Outer Taipei…we really hadn’t come far. Leaving the dedicated cycle path, we entered some’ terrifying traffic during rush hour. I was trembling by the time we arrived outside the motel, which was different to what we expected. Each room had a garage underneath for parking cars but also handy for storing our bikes. The bedroom was enormous, with one wall entirely mirrored, a double jacuzzi bath at one end and very subdued lighting. A little kinky but not bad for about €50.

The following morning, I woke up  with stomach cramps and an urgent need for a loo. Not a great combination with a day’s cycling ahead. The temperature was around 30 degrees, no shade, only a beating heat. The official route followed a four-lane, roaring traffic highway, which surprised and appalled us, and I still needed proximity to a loo. Diverting to a ‘quieter’ route, we found ourselves in a worse position – on a narrow, almost-vertical road, with blind corkscrew bends and hurtling traffic. The stomach-clenching stress made my need for a bathroom even more acute, so we abandoned our journey for the day, and found a place to stay and recuperate.

Over the next days, we grew more accustomed to cycling in traffic. We gave up on slavishly keeping to the official route and diverted where possible to small tracks, sometimes through rice paddies which stretched behind the endless industrial buildings and factories. Graceful egrets added a splash of dazzling white against the green of the rice fields. Although our legs were reasonably strong, our bums and hands were feeling the pressure of gripping saddles and handlebars.

So far, it has been more challenging, more hilly and far hotter than we expected…33C yesterday. The wind, which should be our friend, has turned in our faces…very unusual for this time of year

Pedalling along, saddle sore and weary, so sweaty that I thought I would dissolve and slither off the bike, I looked with envy at the roaring scooters as they disappeared into the distance. I wondered why we didn’t think of renting one or even an electric bike. No pain, no gain? The forecast predicts the weather will cool down in a few days, and the wind will become more favourable; as our backsides are becoming saddle-shaped, we should manage well.